By Land and Sea; By Train, Car and Ship We Go

November 6, 2016

Flying is a hassle. There is a lot of stress when you are checking in with baggage, making sure you aren’t over the weight limit or size, or number of bags. We are traveling with instruments, and there is always the chance that you won’t be allowed to carry it on (thanks cheap-o airlines), and if that happens the worry of damage can be great. Once on the plane (if you fly coach like us), you are restricted to a small seat and it’s a faux pas to get up for anything other than the bathroom.

We decided to extend our travel time, get some more local experience, and try to be more comfortable as we transitioned from Switzerland to Ireland. We took trains to the north coast of France and then a ferry to Ireland.

We purchased our train tickets early, knowing it may be an issue to do so the same morning we left. We got up early, made our way to the main train station, got on the train, and relaxed/slept/read our way to Paris. The seats on the train were relatively comfortable (especially compared to a plane), the other passengers courteous, and it was an altogether good experience.

In Paris we needed to transfer to another train station elsewhere in town and didn’t want to bother with the Metro and all our bags, so we went outside to catch a taxi. Then comes learning moment #1 for this trip, and I believe to be something you have to experience once in order to avoid it in the future.

Nearing the taxi area, we were approached by a man asking if we needed a taxi. Of course we did. Sasha asked him for a price estimate which was waved off as our bags went into the car. In we went as well, and it was off with us. I noticed first that there was no meter inside the car, but with technological improvements these days I figured it must be tied into the GPS somehow. Our driver “Nico” spoke a little English, and we’re not sure of his French capabilities. We made small talk as he sped through traffic, yelled at everyone, answered his phone and almost hit a police car, and could not stay in a  single lane.

Luckily, we made it to our destination, received a €70 charge, and quickly got out with all our stuff. I knew this number was far too high, but didn’t want to haggle with the man who basically had us (and our bags) hostage in his car. So, I forked over the cash and lesson learned the hard way. ALWAYS be sure your taxi driver is legit. Go to the first car in line, look for ID and a meter in the car that shows it really is a taxi. In some cities and countries you will also find specific labels and stickers in the windows or on the bumper.

Also, get a cost estimate and an idea of the route if you know you will need a taxi from one point to another in a foreign city. Then ask for the estimate of the cost for that taxi ride. This way, you will know if you are getting a fair price. There are ways to figure out the cost of the trip, doing a little internet searching before you travel can provide this information.

Now, our families are probably horrified to hear this story and some safety lectures are on the way, but I guarantee you we won’t let this happen to us again.

We grabbed some lunch, went to the bathroom, and got on our train to Cherbourg. This train was not nearly as nice as the first, but we were comfortable enough. Again we read/relaxed to the northern part of France. As with Germany and Switzerland, every small village has a church towering above it, and we enjoyed watching the scenery go by. Cherbourg has a fortress up on a hill overlooking the town, which has been partially converted to a museum devoted to the WWII battle fought just after D-Day.

The taxi to the ferry terminal was absolutely legit. He gave us an estimate before hand, was calm and friendly, and had all the proper taxi accoutrements like a meter and rooftop light. a few minutes and less than €10 later, we’re at the ferry terminal very happy.

 

(At the ferry terminal in Cherbourg, France grabbing a bite to eat)

 

(Getting ready to board the ferry to Ireland)

The ferry was great – kind of like a mini-cruise. Most people drove on, but there were 10-12 people who walked on, including us. There was a movie theater, store, salon, four restaurants, two bars and a coffee shop. Not too bad for a 19-hour boat ride. The cabin was simple and clean, but we didn’t spend a lot of time there. A northern wind brough some roughness, but it was not too bad, and no where near as bad as what we’ve experienced before. Sasha was a little seasick, but laying down helped a ton.

 

(Our room on the ferry)

 

(On the ferry deck with the shops and restaurants)

 

(View of a Cherbourg fort at night, taken from an outdoor deck on the ferry)

 

(Sasha tired from a day of travelling, but happy to be on the ferry)

We arrived early in the afternoon in Rosslare and made our way to the shuttle bus reserved for foot passengers. A customs agent came on board, took our passports, and requested us to go with him.

Then the interview. I know it’s this custom agent’s job to scrutinize foreigners, especially when we state that we are staying for an extended period of time. Too bad we felt like deplorables when he finally stamped us in and let us back on board the bus. We’ve read about rough times people have at certain points of entry all around Europe, but we weren’t expecting it to happen here. The customs official even went so far as to say “there’s not enough in Ireland to see that would take two and a half months.” Clearly he needs to speak with the tourism board of Ireland.

Nevertheless, we were doing nothing wrong and our stay is within the visa limits agreed to between our countries, so we were allowed in. Not without learning lesson #2, however, which relates to being prepared at customs points. I thought I had all our information together, but there were questions I was certainly not fully prepared to answer. These include “do you have enough funds to cover your stay” (yes), followed by “if we checked your bank account right now, how much money would be in there?” (about this and that). I didn’t know the exact amounts, though I dont’ think he has the ability to actually check my account. Also “what is the address where you are staying?” (in my email, do you have Wi-Fi and I can check – no – then I can’t tell you the exact address). Next time, I will remember to have all these in mind and on paper to make the process a little smoother.

We got back on the shuttle which then took a short trip to the terminal station where we disembarked.

A very kind couple who had been with us on the shuttle offered to take us to the train station. With all our stuff, of course the offer was accepted. They dropped us off two stations up in Wexford which was great for making our travels easier and we got a good 30 minutes of personal time with some Dublin locals. We got great tips for things to see and places to go while we visit.

This awesome hospitality more than made up for the grilling from the customs agent and has been truly representative of the people in Ireland. Everyone we’ve met and talked with since arriving have been very friendly and kind. We are really looking forward to the rest of our time here.

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